Sneak peek

So I know that I need to finish the sew along, but I'm also guessing that most of you ladies won't start your bodice until this weekend, maybe next considering that this weekend is Mother's Day.  I just finished my dress and wanted to share!

Overall, I love it!  Next time I will iron the center crease out because it screwed up one of my front pleats, luckily it's not really noticeable to anyone but me.

That little flash is not one of our resident ghosts, it's my little Alice rushing to get ready for a target trip.

I love that it makes my waist look small and that the skirt lays well.  I also love that I cut a size smaller than I usually am and it fits!  I've been running like a mad lady (for me - 4-5 days a week, normal for fit people) and my pants are too big so because of that and the fact that the last dress I made was too big on top (not waist) I decided to go for it.  Yea!!!

It's ever so slightly big on top, could have  taken in the darts a bit more but it's still wearable!  The only thing I don't like is that the cut on the arms gives me that side boob/armpit chub.  Oh well!  I still love it!

I'm pretty happy with my ornamentation to cover the hole I cut.  I think it works, it's still neutral and was free!  

Next time, and there will be a next time, I think I'll use linen or the linen look fabric at Joann's.  There's an aqua print I'm in love with.  If you haven't guessed I love aqua.  Aqua kitchen, sewing room wallpaper, dresses.

Ps I'm also ridiculously happy with how skinny this mirror makes me look!

I can't wait to see how all of your dresses are shaping up!!  I'll do better pictures later I hope :).

Sew Along Part 3 - Bodice

Lets get sewing.  Follow the pattern directions and start by staystiching the necklines of your pieces.  About a half inch from the edge (smaller than your seam allowance so you won't see it on your finished garment - it's just to help stabilize your fabric), stitch.  Every other seam should be sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.  You can change it in certain areas to make it bigger or smaller as needed.

Do this for your regular fabric and your lining.  Now get working on your darts.  

****My suggestion is this.  Do the lining first, front and back and sew (baste - long stitches) it together at the shoulders and sides.  Try it on, see how it fits.  Make any necessary adjustments, take a dart in further, give yourself more room in your side seam.  Write it down somewhere so you don't forget so that you can sew the bodice fabric the same.

First, transfer your pins so they're on the back/wrong side of your fabric.  See how mine looks when I first start?  

After

You want to fold the right sides together so your bottom mark/pins (on the outside of the fold) are lined up.  You're making a triangle with the top mark/pin as the top point.  

Start at the bottom and sew through your point, sewing on a diagonal, getting closer to the edge as you go.  When you near your end point, do a few stitches right on the very edge of your fabric.  DO NOT BACKSTITCH!!!  Leave the thread long and tie it (now or when you've finished all your darts).  

Sew them all, 4 bodice front and 4 lining, one on each bodice and lining back piece.  This is what the front should look like.

If you've done your fitting with the lining, rip out the side seams, keep the shoulder seams.  Sew the front and back outside fabric together at the shoulder seams.

Now, with right sides together, stitch the bodice and lining together at the neck.  Now do the same with the open arms (if you're sewing the sleeveless view C).  If you're not, follow the pattern directions.  If you have a question, don't hesitate to ask!!

You can see my neck edge stitched already and my arm holes pinned.

IWhen you're done, trim the seam and clip the curves.  Clipping the curves just lets the garment lay flat and move better.

The next step is to fold over your lining.  Fold it under to hem it, towards the bodice.  Basically you want a nice clean lining edge inside your bodice.  

See?  Fold it to the inside where your darts are.

Now turn your garment right size out.

Now you want to sew your side seams together.  Match up your bodice side seams and open up your lining too and see them all together at once.

Done!!

Now if you've been careless like me, you can start panicking when you notice, after finishing the bodice, that at some point you cut the front center of it!!!!

So here were my trim options to cover.

I almost went with this next one until I pinned it and tried it on.  The line sits in the middle of my boob.  Not exactly flattering.  

I ended up picking the black.  I loved the ric rack and yellow buttons but I really wanted a staple dress that was neutral.  The black trim was leftover from a Victorian skirt that I never trimmed out.  To get it attached I had to rip a 3" section of the center neckline to slide them in so they'd be hidden.  Wouldn't want them folded over onto the inside lining.

So you're bodice is done and hopefully you don't have to try to trim out your dress to hide a hole!

Sew along part 2

So hopefully you've all purchased your pattern and fabric, zippers, etc.

Determine which view you're making.  I'm making C with B's skirt.  With the size of my rear, I can't do a short skirt.  Sad because my legs have gotten pretty toned.  Can't get rid of my big butt heritage unfortunately lol.

Look over the piece list and mark (or not, your choice.  I don't want to seem like a dictator or anything).  Cut your pieces out following your size lines.  

Cutting your fabric

If you're experienced cutting, you can ignore this.  If you're not, I highly recommend that you follow the suggested layout for cutting.  It lists it by size and fabric width.  I found it really helpful when I first started.  I no longer follow it basically because I'm cheap.  There can be quite a bit if fabric waste.  Now I underestimate the yardage and am usually able to get them all in doing my own layout.

If you're going to wing it (or are having trouble following the diagram - I've been there!). I recommend starting with the pieces that need to be on the fold.  The skirt front and bodice front.  Then do the rest of the skirt pieces.  When I got to the back piece, it was too wide to fit with my fabric folded the way it came on the bolt. I had to unfold it completely and re-fold.

You can see the center crease, that was where it was folded.  

If you're familiar with the triangles, ignore me.  If not.  Cut them like this:

They're to help you line up your pieces.  

Cut all of your pieces.  Only one set for the skirt.  With the pleats, there's too much bulk to do a lining (I intended to line my skirt until I saw how much fabric was used for the skirt.)

Marking your pieces

After you've cut everything you need to transfer your markings.  You can transfer them with chalk or a disappearing ink pen.  I've had bad luck with them that probably has more to do with me not reading the packaging than the pen itself.  I prefer the quick marking system (the lazy way.  That's a theme with me.). I mark with pins.

I just flip up the pattern at the half way mark of the circle in the top darts.  Then I fold the top layer of fabric up and mark under it for the second piece/layer.  You will have to transfer the pins on the bottom piece to the opposite side.  Just an FYI.  This is the quickest method I've found.  

Same goes for the pleats.

Done.  Ready to sew?  I start tonight!  I'll have the bodice post up in the next day or two hopefully.  

Thank goodness for having to sit in the dentist chair waiting for my mouth to far numb for a filling.  Gave me just enough time to do this post.