Thursday, April 3, 2014

Anna Coronation Dress Tutorial


So here's the dress to recreate.




I'm using my standard pattern that I always use.  Simplicity 2817.


The biggest problem when adapting a pattern is figuring out how much fabric you'll need; especially with a pattern that always overestimates yardage.  Here's what I bought.

Hunter lining (for underskirt, bodice lining and sleeves
-2.25 (I had about half left)

Black velveteen (bodice and straps)
-.50 (almost half left, enough for another bodice)

Home decor Soraia Mist (over skirt)
- 25"/.70 (id number if you want it - 400060961929) (using all)

1 package double fold gold metallic bias tape

1 package single fold gold metallic bias tape

So first things first.  Cut your pattern. Measure your child first as pattern sizes I find run large.  My girls are on the small side.  Here is my altered version of the bodice front piece.


Altered back.  Start at the underarm seam and cut straight across so you have a large rectangle.


Now pin and cut your fabric.  Use the triangle marks on the top pieces, but don't bother with the skirt, they won't line up.  

Bodice:
1 bodice front in black on fold
2 bodice back pieces in black
1 bodice front in lining on fold
2 bodice back pieces in lining

I don't like having a front seam.  I cut the bodice front on a fold.  You need to compensate for the seam allowance that would normally be there so slide the pattern so it overhangs the fold 5/8".  If you don't, your bodice will be 5/8" larger than it's supposed to.


Do this for bodice and lining front.

For the skirt, cut one front piece on the fold and one side back and front (piece 10) instead of two.  Don't cut it on the fold.  

Now the over skirt.  I decided to cut it into strips like this.


I ended up with 7 large strips, with 7 or 8 skinny strips left that were in the middle.  Now I need to serge them.  I don't have a serger.  I experimented with a couple different stitches and stitch sizes on a scrap piece.


I liked 16 with a tighter and shorter stitch.

 
Start sewing up the sides.  Start with your needle in the down position, then slide your fabric over until it hits the needle.  That's the perfect position.



Right side done, left still unfinished.

Now that all your prep is done, it's time to start construction in the next post.

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