Butterick sew along part 4

HBodice assembly time!

So assuming you've fitted your lining, you have now taken out the side seams.  You should have a lining and a bodice with the front and back sewn together at the shoulder seams only.

***if you'd like to add any trim to the bodice/neckline, this is the time.  You want the ends of it to be encased in the back seam so it doesn't show and/or fray.  

I did a double row of rickrac on my thanksgiving version of this.  

If you're going to add something, first, do a basting stitch at 5/8" around the entire neckline.  I usually set my stitch length to 4 for a basting stitch.  This is just so you know where your placement is.  You'd hate to sew it too high and have it not show or have to rip it out.

Place and pin your trim then stitch it on.  Then remove your basting stitch.   

Now it's time to assemble.  With the right sides together, pin the bodice and lining neckline to each other.  I start at the center and work my way around, making sure shoulder seams line up.  I also stitch the center back together (the side with the 3 notches).  You don't have to do that step.  I do it because I don't like having an unfinished edge under my zipper.

It's kinda hard to see because I don't have a big enough work space to lay it out completely.  It's times like this that I miss sewing on the dining room table.  I don't miss having to clear off the table every night or make the family eat in the living room for a month straight :/.

Start stitching at one of the center back sides but with the smallest possible seam allowance you can get.  Then turn at the neckline when you're 5/8" away.

 Stitch all the way around.  If you're doing the "V" in front, stop stitching (and backstitch a time or two) at the first dot, then rotate and stitch down to the bottom of the V, backstitch again, then rotate and sew back to the next dot.  Backstitch again and then continue on around the neck.  I would recommend backstitching by hand here - turning the wheel on your machine by hand.  You don't have a lot of space to work with and it's easy to go too far.  It's also hard to see.  You don't have to backstitch in all those places, I do it because I'm paranoid!  

When you get to the other center back piece, go to the smallest seam allowance you can again.

I didn't do a great job on my V.  I think I need to sew it a little deeper.  I didn't mark it, it was a last minute decision to add it.

Now slash into the V being careful not to cut into or too close to your stitching line.

Next it's time to sew the arm holes.  Most patterns I've found have you use some sort of binding on sleeveless dresses.  I find it super irritating and annoying and time consuming to do.  I didn't even look to see if that's what we're supposed to do here.  My first version of this has piping so that might be what the directions tell you to do.  Sorry!  I like it my way better.

Just pin and sew at 5/8" all the way around the arm holes.

Now trim and clip your curves.  I didn't take pictures here because holding something and taking photos with an iPad requires one more hand than I had.  I do have pictures of another dress though :)

Trimming the seam.

Curve clipping.  Clipping the curve is just cutting straight lines on all curved sections, closeish to the seam but not too close and not through it!  It helps the bodice to lie flat.

Now turn your bodice right side out.  This is why we didn't sew up our side seams yet.  Open the bodice front sections and feed the back ones through.

Now you need to attach the sides.  Hopefully you remember how your fitting went and how big you want your seam allowance.  I'm thankful I'm doing the sew along because I had it written down to check back on.

Sandwich together the bodice fabric front and corresponding side piece and the lining.  

See how the lining pieces on the inside line up?  Unfold the bodice fabric sections so the whole thing is matched, right sides together.  The lining sections should be kissing and the bodice fabric should be kissing.

Start pinning at the middle seam to make sure it lines up and pin out from there.  My bodice front pieces were too long because of my darts not lining up because I played with cutting between sizes.  Yours should line up if you didn't mess around like me!  Even if they don't line up perfectly, don't worry!  It's not a huge deal!  We'll take care of it when we attach the skirt.  

Stitch.  Make sure when you get to the center seam that you rotate a little because of the angle of the bodice.  It's not a straight line.

This might be a better photo - also from a previous project.

Do the other side and you're done!  Your bodice is assembled!

The next thing I like to do is top stitch.  I'll admit that it's the first step to go though if I'm in a time crunch.  You can also just press your seams if you prefer.  I'm too lazy to get out an ironing board, so top stitching it is.  

Start at the center back seam, I usually do smaller than a 3/8" allowance.  You can do whatever you like the look of, just be consistent.  Make sure your seam has been turned all the way.  Sometimes I have to get a needle to pull my fabric out of the crease.  This is especially true at the corners.  Make sure you also think about your thread color.  A lot of times I sew all my seams in white and then curse myself at top stitching time because I don't have the right color thread.  You can also do a fun contrasting thread here if you like.  

Stitch all around the outside, starting at the center back (where your zipper will be), up and around your neckline and down the other center back side.  Then go around your arms.  I recommend starting on the back bodice section right below your underarm seam.  It's the most inconspicuous place in the event you run into trouble.  It's difficult to start right over the seam, which would be the least noticeable.

And that's it!  Next time we're moving on to the skirt.  Get ready :)